The concrete depths of 180 The Strand were the location for Berthold’s LCM SS17 presentation; its industrial vibe the perfect backdrop for the art installation-esque scene that greeted us as we rounded a corner and found ourselves face to face with a line of unmoving models.
A few moments later and the models began marching, one by one, through the lightly-swaying draped fabric fixtures. Known for his exploration of volume and movement, designer Raimund Berthold once again has given us a collection of billowing silhouettes, but this time with sleeker, more disciplined lines. As ever, his thought process was inspired by a single item; this season it was the French army cavalry coat and its use of its huge proportions to create sharp structures.
Outerwear was pulled into shape by tailored necklines and asymmetric closures, creating pleats and figure-fitting form. Loose, wide-legged trousers were kept in check by long separates, generating a completely straight line down the body. Here and there, flowing trails and contrasting blocks of fabric had been added to the garments, breaking this more rigid form to create movement and texture.
Colours were mostly subdued, favouring black, grey and cream. A flash of red broke through the collection, nodding to Anish Kapoor’s 2010 installation at the Guggenheim, Ascension (Red), which was another aspect of Berthold’s inspirational moodboards that has made its way into the clothes.
Accessories were kept to a minimum – simple, flat sandals were the single shoe choice, suiting both formal and casual looks alike. Bags were dotted here and there, each one formed of a trio of rectangular clutches, dangling from the models’ hands to generate three dimensional angles.
Once again, Bethold has created a line of functional elegance, bringing together his intricate ideas to generate a new and appealing silhouette for the SS17 man. His sleek and precise garments form a collection where every piece has a part to play, leaving nothing superfluous or unnecessary.
Originally written for: WJ London