Ever the fan of propping the catwalk with geometric structures, this season two curved monochrome domes curved towards each other, forming an arch over the catwalk in the BFC showspace, for Holly Fulton’s AW16 show. The trance-like music began and the first of the models appeared through it, inviting us into Fulton’s vision for next Autumn.
We’ve all been there; finding ourselves totally underdressed on a freezing cold day and wondering why on earth we didn’t wrap up more. Only Holly Fulton could take this experience and turn it into something beautiful. Taking inspiration from a snowy trip to the Scottish Highlands where she only wore an anorak, silk skirt and a pair of tights, the collection evoked a distinct feeling of winter undress; scarves and thick coats were paired and leotards and bare legs.
And that wasn’t the only souvenir from her trip; traditional Scottish paisley formed the base print of her collection, appliquéd on ruffled skirts, embroidered on downy parkas, turned into shimmering jacquard and made super-size on billowing dresses.
With Fulton’s well-known use of colour, it was surprising to see almost uniquely monochrome designs coming down the catwalk, but these suddenly gave way to fresh olives, dusky pinks and chocolate browns. Influenced by David Inshaw’s use of colour in his painting The Badminton Game, the combinations gave off a particularly seventies vibe. Velvet, off-the-shoulder jumpsuits, wide-legged trousers and bell-bottomed sleeves added to this effect, complemented by the hanging lampshade earrings sported by many of the models.
Juxtaposed with this retro, folky feel was the dramatic eye make-up; broken silver leaf along the brow line created a high-tech, shattered glass feeling that was reflected in the covetable box bags that have returned from last season.
It was a show of contrasts: high necklines with even higher hemlines, abstract modernity with surreal retro, monochrome with bold colour combinations, cold with warm. With all these juxtapositions under her belt (cinching in the waist of her patterned, flowing dress, of course), the Holly Fulton girl can handle anything, exuding effortless glamour whilst remaining ready to adapt to the nuances of the everyday world.
Images: Phoebe Fox | Fashion Week Photographer | @_phox_
Originally written for WJ London