LFW: H by Hakaan Yildirim

unnamedThe final show of London Fashion Week AW15 had to be, by definition, something special. Crowds descended upon the show space in the Somerset House courtyard as the sun set, clamouring to gain entry to turkish designer Hakaan Yildirim’s catwalk.

Ominous, brooding rhythms announced the start of the show, as skintight animal-print bodies and catsuits stalked down the runway, shrouded in black culottes, a high-necked, split seam dress and a long black overcoat.

Inspired by cult icon Little Edie of documentary film Grey Gardens, the collection embodied eccentric glamour. Windswept headscarves, frozen mid-gust, were paired with sultry black corsets; fitted culotte suits, adorned in glittering embellishments, oozed style and decadence in red and emerald shades; fur followed leather and silk, each one transformed into something more extravagant then the next.

Yet, as someone who’s world is crumbling around her, Edie, like many of us, needed to find ways to refresh her wardrobe into something new; a theme also translated onto the runway. Oversize fur coats became perfectly acceptable evening dresses, whilst large stitches appeared as a motif throughout the collection, suggesting a hint of alteration.

The models marched back in to complete their final tour of the runway; London Fashion Week was over for another season. And what a way to end it. Hakaan Yildirim has produced an exquisite line, which speaks at once of glamour and austerity. In a world where economic uncertainty is rife and where, as The Business of Fashion’s founder Imran Amed pointed out this week, designers are battling creativity with the need to be financially successful, this show reminded us that we can still be sleek, sophisticated and utterly fabulous, no matter what.
Originally written for WJ London.