The foyer of The Hospital Club, an exclusive members-only hub for the creative community, full of deep reds and browns and featuring a wall of vintage trunks, couldn’t have contrasted more with the adjoining brightly lit space where Wilson PK was presenting his AW15 collection.
A white room, filled with nothing but sixteen plinths supporting the models and mannequins, was abuzz as the designer chatted with guests and models smiled and laughed with each other on their platforms, bringing a rarely seen movement to the clothes on display.
The collection itself was awash with colour and texture; pastel pink wool and light blue rubber stood next to sheer monochromes and silver foils. PK, known for his extraordinary textile creation, once again delighted us with innovation: beading was fabricated using 3D printing and quilted detail came from rubber mixed lambswool. Lock and bolt jacket closings, pointed collars and zip-up metallic and beaded bralets, worn over the top of sheer fabrics, provided a sense of fun throughout the line, reminding us of PK’s incredible detailing talent.
Despite this pervading light-heartedness, the collection, as the designer himself explained, is inspired by and commenting on social hierarchy and the fragility of the human existence. After spending time volunteering in a homeless shelter, PK began to see London in a new light. His discoveries of the extremity of the contrast between rich and poor and the architectural juxtaposition of skyscrapers and council estates took their places on the plinths as asymmetrical silhouettes and conflicting textures. He also came to consider how delicate humanity is, despite our innovation and technology, shown through the ‘Handle with Care’ washing label emblazoned on skirts, shirts and goody bags alike.
The designer’s favourite piece? A fabulously kooky see-through, fitted, strapless dress filled with black and turquoise butterfly wings. It is no surprise, then, that Lady Gaga is such a huge fan of his work, having snapped up his entire SS15 collection and wearing his designs last summer. I predict that it won’t be long before we see this dress, and others from this exciting collection, strutting around Hollywood.
Originally written for WJ London.